In the run up to Advent, I joined Archdeacon Peter Hooper on an immensely encouraging set of visits to chaplaincies in South East France. The geography is such that we were able to do the whole set of visits by train, which is preferable in every respect. I did a similar set of visits four years ago and since then much has changed. 

After meeting Area Dean Ben Harding in the great French ecclesiastical centre of Lyon, we travelled 60 miles south east to Grenoble, a city twinkling with Christmas lights and  surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

Our community in Grenoble meets in the Ecumenical Centre of St. Marc. The building has recently been redeveloped by its Roman Catholic owners at considerable expense, and what was formerly a rather stark 1960s interior is now both beautiful and practical. The building features several spaces suitable for meetings and worship, the largest of which seats 400. 

The Ecumenical Centre is now one of the most suitable worship centres in the diocese. It is genuinely shared, as the new nameplate above the front door indicates, and is a wonderful outworking of Roman Catholic-sponsored ecumenism. 

I enjoyed meeting the Council of St. Marc’s Grenoble, under the still quite new leadership of Chaplain John Gay (far left) and his wife Lucy (on my right).   

After a night in Grenoble, we took an early morning train to connect with the TGV which took us 300km south to Marseilles. The Reverend Roxana Teleman (on my right) is assistant chaplain, and looking after the church during a vacancy process. Historically this has been a small chaplaincy compared with the size of the city, with growth in the rural areas of the Luberon and neighbouring towns. We met with the Council over lunch to listen to their experience of chaplaincy life and to pray together. I was pleased to talk with a lady whose day job is working as a civil engineer to maintain the safety of concrete structures like walls and bridges on alpine roads, and who was seeking books that would help her grow in faith and prepare for confirmation.  

Roxana’s husband, André, proudly showed me the digital organ he has built. It is truly remarkable. It represents three months’ work, and it reproduces, with a pretty high degree of faithfulness, the registration of around fifty famous European organs. 

From Marseilles we travelled 180 km east to Cannes. We were welcomed into the home of Chaplain Andy Brewerton and his wife Amanda, meeting their ordinand, Clare Vernon, and chatting to Council members. We then travelled along the coast to Nice, where we spent two nights at the home of the Chaplain of Holy Trinity Nice, Jeremy Auld, and his wife Christine.  

After meeting with the Chaplain of St. Paul’s Monaco, Hugh Bearn, we travelled east to Menton, on the Italian border. The church of St. John (pictured above) was rebuilt a few years ago after severe damage caused by neighbouring construction and a protracted but ultimately successful search for proof of ownership needed for a large insurance claim. 

The English Library adjoins St. John’s Church. It contains 4000 books and is a beautiful space for meetings. The Library provides a welcoming and gentle form of outreach – separate from the church but linked to it. The Reverend Chris Parkman, on my left, with his wife Sarah, on his left – who works with A Rocha International - lead a happy and growing community.   

On the Eve of Advent, we celebrated a Eucharist at St. Hugh Vence. This is a gorgeous little church that is paired with the much bigger Holy Trinity Nice. After our worship, I was left feeling that very few communities of this size could offer such lovely worship and beautiful music. It was an excellent way to begin the season of Advent. 

Holy Trinity Nice has been described as ‘The Cathedral of the Riviera’, and it is an impressive place. The liturgical climax of our visit was a service of Confirmation at Holy Trinity Nice on Advent Sunday, with seven candidates from Nice and seven from Monaco. I always enjoy hearing the testimonies and stories of confirmation candidates, especially when people come to confirmation in later life, sometimes finding their way back to a faith which they had as a child or having been through different denominations. 

With the exception of Area Dean Ben Harding, all the chaplaincies in this Region either have relatively new clergy or are in the process of appointment. I was greatly heartened by the quality of clergy and lay leadership, by the evidence of good morale, and signs of growth. I am thankful to God for what he is doing through our communities in this part of France and through a period of significant change.